DIANA AUTO

Archive for October, 2010

Car prices today compete with small houses and well-equipped
mobile homes. As these price increases become more accepted by
consumers, so too are the longer terms that are necessary to fit
them into cost of living budgets. At one point, the magic payment
amount for the retail automobile market was $200 per month. But
that payment would only satisfy a loan of approximately $8000-
10000 depending on interest rates.

The average car payment today is closer to $400 per month and
that’s with financial institutions stretching the terms to 72-84
and 120 months. Something has gone terribly wrong in the psyche of
consumers to even imagine that an automobile will not become
obsolete before it is all paid up, 6, 7 or 10 years down the road.

All they really need to do is take a look at a vehicle sold in
1995, 1997 or 1999, to get a live preview of what their new car
will look like and potentially what it will be worth.
Interestingly, research indicates that most Americans get bored
with a car after driving it for 24-36 months. Why then
would the typical financing term be 72-120 months?

At the point of purchase, most consumers tend to forget that car
payments never include the cost of insurance, required maintenance
and gas. When these items are added to a car payment, it can
easily exceed what some people are paying in mortgages.

It’s analogous to the Middle Eastern people like Iranians whose
culture practices beating themselves on the back with chains and
whips. Every month, millions of Americans face the self-inflicted
pain of making another car payment. Like the Iranians, they
believe that if they can do it, it must be good and it will
somehow make them better people in the hereafter.

A self-made millionaire, Dr. Cooper, an advocate for reversing
unnecessary consumer debt has come up with a simple plan to change
how we think of automobile ownership. His plan uses the same
philosophy that our grand fathers grew up with, i.e. never buy
anything that you cannot afford to pay for out of your own pocket.

Unfortunately, if we lived by those rules we would need traffic
lights and zebra crossings on our major highways because they
would be packed with pedestrians.

Well let’s share Dr. Cooper’s plan. He calls it the “Vehicle
Saving Fund”. This is a basic commercial bank savings
account that can be started at any local bank. To make it more
meaningful to you, lets call it the “Freedom From Car
Payment Fund.” Anyone can start such a fund; it does not
matter if they are currently financing a vehicle.

The idea is that if you intend to be a productive member of
society and enjoy the benefits of your labor you will need to have
personal transportation. This is not optional for most people who
do not live in a big city where public transportation is
available. The fund should be considered absolutely necessary,
much like the rent or mortgage, it’s a living expense.

Here is how it works; if you are currently driving a financed
vehicle, resolve to pay it off in its normal term. It’s hard to
keep making payment on a vehicle you do not like but that’s where
the discipline becomes important. Also, resolve to put aside a
small amount every month to your “Freedom From Car
Payment” account. Initially, it is totally understandable
that it may be a little difficult but the amount is not important,
it’s the habit and the psychology of doing it that makes all the
difference. You can start with as little as $5-$10-$25 just be
committed to doing it every month until it becomes a habit.

You will also have to make a decision to continue driving the
vehicle you are currently paying, this plan does not work if you
decide that you need a new vehicle before paying off the one you
are driving. The closer you are to your end of term, the better
position you will be in to get what you want. But there is no
rush, when you pay it off you should then begin to put the amount
of your previous payment into your vehicle fund. Now with the
equity in your current vehicle and your savings you can begin
shopping.

Considering the prices of automobiles today, there is a high
probability that because of your vehicle depreciation and the
small savings, you might not have enough money to buy a new
vehicle. If you do not have enough to purchase what you want,
there are always other options; the first is to buy what you can
afford. The alternative (worst-case scenario) is facing the dealer
with no savings and having negative equity in the vehicle you are
currently driving.

Strange concept, I know, but when its all said and done,
transportation is transportation, it gets you from point A to
point B. The only difference is what you are willing to pay to get
there. For many, because of the values they hold “whatever
it takes” is an appropriate answer but the mind set has to
now change to discipline and the desire to stop making lifetime
payments.

If you don’t have a car right now and are enjoying the bliss of
not having a financial obligation to an automobile, you can begin
your savings immediately so that when the time comes you will have
a sizable chunk to begin your search for your new car. You are in
a very good position if you are not in the market presently
looking for a vehicle.

You have the time to save and plan for your next automobile. Begin
the “Freedom From Car Payments Fund” today and in a
couple of years you will really be much better off. Contrary to
what dealers try to make you believe, car ownership does require
long term planning in order to break the cycle of swapping
payments every 3-4 years. It is a long term serious investment.

It’s that simple. Easy, no but simple, and it can be done. It
requires discipline and patience two characteristics that are not
easily harnessed in by the now generation. The obvious benefit is
no car payment but you will also save on insurance and have much
more disposable income for other necessities. With determination,
a little vision and planning anyone can drive exactly what they
want; without the burden of a monthly payment. Could that be you?

Part and parcel of owning a bike is maintaining its appearance and its capability. Nevertheless, despite making sure that the parts and cables of the motorcycle give us maximum service, we cannot but accept that they have their own warranties and lifetimes.

Unlike artwork or antiques, motorcycles are made to be used and abused. With all the elements found in the environment, motorcycle parts will definitely have its final day. When that day comes and you don’t have enough money to buy new ones, why not settle for used motorcycle parts, e.g. cables? With a few tinkering and proper installation, they might just provide you the service you need in many years to come.

Here are some suggestions for proper installation of used motorcycle parts and cables:

Tip #1: Inspect and make sure you have the correct cable. This is the very first step in getting the best used cable you need. Inspect the used cable for any major wear and tear. Remember that these are used cables so it will definitely have a few scratches; but it must not be too great that using it for just a few days will result in a total bust. After you have checked thoroughly, make sure you have the correct part for the application, e.g. correct cable ends, proper size casing ferrules, correct size, shape and thread size of adjusters/elbows, etc.

Tip #2: Make sure all adjusters are in “closed” position.

Tip #3: Use a direct route for the cables. Route your used cables from control to actuator in the most direct way possible. Keep cables away from hot surfaces and avoid sharp bends, as well as “kinks” in the housing or inner cable.

Tip #4: Adjust throttle/idle cables. These should be adjusted the carb/s will return to full close when off. Adjust any excessive freeplay and be sure throttle action is smooth and free from open to full close before starting the engine. Also make sure that the used cables do not bind together or hang up when there is full lock-to-lock movement of bars.

Tip #5: Make sure clutch/brake cables are routed properly. This is to avoid binding or hanging up the cables when there is full lock-to-lock movement of bars. Also, cables that are routed properly will not bind during compression of forks or suspension. Install lever and actuator fittings, adjust freeplay to correct specs and check for smooth-positive action. These are done before starting the bike.

Tip #6: Route the speedometer/tachometer cables using a direct path. Make sure that the cable will not hang up on the caliper when forks compressed on the front wheel drive speedometer cable. This is what usually happens with aftermarket calipers because they often come in a larger size or different shape. Always make sure that the inner cable is well-lubed with light grease when installing and removing. Clean and re-grease regularly for maintenance.

Tip #7: Avoid having contact with painted surfaces when installing stainless steel braided cables. The braided surfaces of these used cables are very abrasive. You can use shrink or spiral wrap and/or cable guides when needed. And because stainless braided cables are less flexible, always keep this in mind when getting measurements for applications that are tailored according to your specifications. Clean and lube like any conventional cable assemblies.

And like any other used motorcycle parts, keep used cables clean and properly lubricated when necessary. Always check on the proper adjustments and inspect for any wear and tear on a regular basis. Signs to look out for are torn or worn housing, frayed wires, and signs of bending or kinking at the controls.

About the author:
Granny’s Mettle is a 30-something, professional web content writer. She has created various web content on a diverse range of topics, which includes digital printing topics, medical news, as well as legal issues. Her articles are composed of reviews, suggestions, tips and more for the printing and designing industry.

Her thoughts on writing: “Writing gives me pleasure… pleasure and excitement that you have created something to share with others. And with the wide world of the Internet, it gives me great satisfaction that my articles reach more people in the quickest time you could imagine.”

On her spare time, she loves to stay at home, reading books on just about any topic she fancies, cooking a great meal, and taking care of her husband and kids.

Even with regular maintenance and upkeep, our motorcycles tend to get used and subjected to different elements in the environment. To keep used motorcycle parts as good as the day when we first bought them, regular washing and rinsing will do the trick.

But you should take note how you do your washing. You might scratch parts of your motorcycle.

Top Rule: Avoid scratches.

Scratches are the biggest enemy of any bike’s finish. The secret of keeping your used motorcycle parts as good as new is to avoid scratches in your motorcycle. Dirt and grime when rubbed in while washing or drying, act as sandpaper and will definitely dull the brilliance of your bike’s paint.

To avoid scratching your bike, first, you need to remember that anything that comes in contact with your motorcycle’s finish should be made of soft material. Take care that no harsh or rough surfaces will be able to connect with any part of your motorcycle. Zippers are the worst offenders.

Use only clean, freshly washed cotton cloths or towels to dry your bike after washing. When you need to put on any application to make your bike shine, again use the clean cotton cloths and towels. Rinse thoroughly the sponges or wash mitts, as well as the bucket, before and after washing your bike to remove any dirt or grime.

One of the best advice I got from a used motorcycle parts site was to separate my bike’s areas into normal and rough areas when washing. I usually consider the painted surfaces as normal areas, while the tires, engine, and inner fenders are the rough areas. I use different wash mitts and sponges for each area to keep dirt and grime away from the sensitive areas. This way, scratching would be avoided.

Use also a gentle stream of water when rinsing, rather than high water pressure that comes from the hose. The high pressure of water will cause dirt to grind further into the paint, causing scratches along with other worse problems. And remember to use generous amounts of water when rinsing. Dirt that causes scratch will easily float away with enough water used.

When washing your bike…

Use lots of water, but without the high pressure. Totally avoid using pressure washers. Instead let the water flow freely by detaching the nozzle from the hose.

Along with the generous amount of water, use detergents designed specifically for motorcycle washing. Ordinary detergent tends to remove the wax that we want to try to keep. Simply mix the detergent according to the directions and go for it. Just make sure you rinse each section soon after applying the detergent so that no soap film will develop. It is difficult to get rid of the soap film when it dries up.

After washing, rinse, rinse, and rinse some more. Rinse everywhere. Every nook and cranny should be rinsed of soap.

Lastly, wash your motorcycle without bright sunlight. Soap suds can easily dry from the heat. Ideal time of the day would be in the late afternoon or early morning when the sun is not so strong.